Mopar A body suspension.

[GLH]

Mopar A body suspension settings are a well discussed Subject. With us expecting more out of a 50 year old design, it can be done.
 I relate my findings.
The first requirement is to get all components new or in good condition.
I have a new power Chuck and have not gone to rack -I want to retain originality (or within reason)
I have a bearing Idler arm. Good improvement!
I wanted to maximise positive caster and with eccentric Moog bushes could only get about +2 Degrees. 
So what to do next - I carefully measured everything -and found no alignment issues(crash Damage) and not faulty components.
My finding-- if the radius rod is shortened (a temporary turn buckle) 2.5 Degrees extra caster can be obtained and I still have 2 deg on the UCA cams (maintaining some camber adjustment.)
However all A body Radius arms are the same length --not so, I  found a very early set where 12mm shorter and this intrigues me and it should fix this lack of caster problem!
Note I could go to an after market adjustable radius rod but I do not think they are road legal in NZ and we drive some very valuable cars!
Regards
Gavin 
I now think after reading the web based LVVTA pages, after-market pivoted adjustable radius rods are OK, providing the connection points are not altered and the component is a catalogued part from a reputable company -anyway read it yourself!

[CHARGER]

I have just completed major front end mods and am using Hotchkis adjustable strut rods - as to how much they contribute to the overall change I can't tell as everything was addressed. I have also used much larger torsion bars with Hotchkis adjustable shocks which has resulted in a significant reduction in body roll.

[GLH]

Thanks for reply and sorry I missed making an earlier response.
My problem was a damaged tire from misalignment, I am not there yet but have replaced all tie rod ball joints, one was questionable, replaced both upper control arm ball joints -one had play. These all should have been OK from rebuilding 15 000 miles ago! After setting both Camber and caster up, then road testing  camber is again out 3 degrees .
I now will replace the lower control arm bushes ---I can see some misalignment in the rt torsion bar (measurement to the chassis).   I am putting MDI bushes ( By Hemi performance) in and should have this done this weekend. Camber and toe-in should then be stable!

Someone may have done this and could tell me-- do you have to remove both the old steel sleeves (from the rubber bush).
I think the outer one stays? Hemi performance issue no instructions and their telephone technical line is slow! 

I think the end result will be sort this and probably go to tubular upper control arms to get more caster. This car handles good anyway. Its a Stirling Moss Hard top with an E38 speced 245. (with a Holley)